windsaler Once 533MC was added, along with 2 dew heaters, it would not boot up and send a wi-fi signal. Searched forum and saw your thread.
So I unplugged everything except my guide camera, and the AA+ booted up flawlessly.
Brent, you must not fall for the "Simple as 1,2,3" nonsense :-). It is a figment of ZWO's imagination. Things are never that easy or smooth in this hobby.
The Vaonis Stellina is probably the closest one can get to plug and play, if all you are interested is in pictures.
There is another thread with people with such flakey issues. And the OP finally solved it by swapping some of the ports! It looks like some of the 3rd generation ASIAIR's USB-3 ports is interfering with the WiFi signal. I had just a little earlier posted to the thread that one of the Apple Mac Mini had a USB 3 port interfere with Bluetooth (which also uses the 2.4 GHz band).
You can try using shielded USB 3 cables, or perhaps try swapping ports too.
Another thing you can try is a powered USB hub (one that does not backpower the ASIAIR) with a single shielded USB connection from the ASIAIR. Connect everything else to the hub and not to the ASIAIR.
Even if an unshielded cable might appear to work, you could still find occasional hiccups in data captures, and perhaps even outright camera disconnects (which you read about that happening quite often with ASIAIR).
Another thing that could help are these split-core ferrite beads that clamp on to the USB cable to prevent RF from flowing on the shield of the cable. You have probably seen the cylindrical blob at the ends of some USB cables. They usually come in two sizes (usually to match RG58 and RG6 coax cable sizes) and you will need to fins a size that fits your particular USB cable.
They sort of look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZQZQ5BQ
And there are tons of different ones at Amazon. Just pick one that fits your needs.
Sometimes, an additional bead would actually hurt. I remember reading a white paper by Hitachi or NEC or some other Japanese manufacturer warning about beads attenuating the actual USB waveform. But they should work with shield cables. There is no harm trying.
Chen
