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Basic use questions new user
StellarVision
My S50 never finds the sun and moon, I have to manually slew to it but of course it takes a while. Any suggestions.
Shooting the sun and moon what is a good time to capture good quality it seems to default to 10 minutes, should I stop at 10 or keep going. Same question for deep sky objects.
Are these the best apps to use for post image processing. I was told to use ASIStudio's ASIVideoStack for planetary images and SIRIL for deep sky images.
Its been cold here lately can I use my S50 if the temps at night are in the 20s F.
Any good tutorials on how to use mosaic mode, I haven't used it yet but once I figure it out will probably almost always use mosaic mode.
6.If I want to free up space on my S50 do I just delete all the folder that appear when I connect it to my computer.
starnet59
This is a well known problem. It used to work better in the past but there is no way to revert to earlier versions of the app/firmware. For the Sun, you can use the hole on the solar filter and the shadow cast by the gap between the body and the arm of the S50 to get very close, then use the "joystick" to center the Sun. It's not easy but it can be done. The Moon is even more challenging. Calibrating the compass and leveling the S50 before attempting Sun/Moon shots is a must.
In theory, if you take videos of the Sun or Moon, the app will stack them to create a better still image. This uses a lot of disk space and it never worked for me. In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice, in practice there is. For deep sky objects it depends on the target. If it is just stars and globular clusters, 1 to 5 minutes is more than enough. You only need longer exposures if you are hunting for very dim targets, with a 30 minute exposure I was able to see stars down to magnitude 17 - your mileage will of course vary depending on seeing conditions, light pollution, phase of the moon, etc. For light emitting nebulae (those that have a small green circle next to their image in the SkyAtlas database) you may want to try to use the light pollution filter. 5 minutes to 1 hour are typical exposure times. For galaxies, the more, the better, but for more than one hour I would suggest individual captures and stacking in post processing. The S50 only works with a human next to it, by design. If you want long exposures forget about sleeping, unless you are there at the end of a 3 -hour session to press the stop button you get nothing. Also, expect less than 70% efficiency, a 30-minute capture can take between 40 minutes and one hour. For long exposures you are guaranteed satellite trails, which take even longer to average out. All these issues could be partially addressed with such a simple change as the option to save intermediate FIT/JPG files every 5 minutes during very long captures. ZWO have their own plans for adding features, take many months to implement them, and while they acknowledge user suggestions like this one, they never implement them.
For session planning, the app SkyAtlas is next to useless. I found Stellarium much better, while not free as an Android or iOS app, there are web based and PC versions which are free. SIRIL is free but quite challenging to use. Graxpert is another good free resource. For mosaics I had good results with Astro Pixel Processor, but it is not free.
I have been using the S50 last winter here in Canada and it survived. I asked Perplexity AI this question and the answer was "The operating temperature range for the ZWO Seestar S50 telescope is -10°C to 40°C (14°F to 104°F)", so yes, you can use it when it's cold. Do not forget to turn on the anti-dew heater and stay inside.
Please read my earlier post on the mosaic mode. It is easy to use but quite frustrating if you want results. I have tested it since it was released and I do not plan on using it as it is now, do not set your expectations too high.
Yes, but copy the files before you do that and keep a back up too.
PatV
To find Sun easily, hold a white card against the side of Seestar, slew until shadow just disappears. Do the same on the top of the arm.
For the Sun, usually when its about 30 to 60 degrees above morning horizon. Changes with location and mood of atmosphere. I have problems with trees in the way and a nearby large carpark which is a turbulence generator.
For the Moon, just go to 2 stargazing objects first. Once Seestar knows where it is it will find the Moon.
I have not tried these. I use Autostakkert for Sun and planetary, Siril for other other stuff.
I have not needed to try below -2C yet.
Mosaic mode is almost too easy to need a tutorial. Google!
If you want to process in Siril, etc., Copy the files from Seestar to your computer before you delete them from Seestar. Sorry to state the obvious but just in case!