Skylab1 Polaris is not visible for me roof and trees are blocking it
No, you do not want to see Polaris. You want visibility near the NCP, not Polaris.
If your declination is moved 30 degrees away from the NCP, do you have two clear spots in the sky that are 4 hours in RA apart? The brightest star in the Big Dipper (Dubhe) is about 30 degrees from the pole; so that should give you a good feel of how much 30 degrees is.
If you can see Dubhe twice a night, 4 hours apart, you will be able to use ASIAIR Polar Alignment. You just need to move the mount to one of those clear locations, start the Polar Alignment process, and then let ASIAIR slew the mount by 4 hours (60 degrees) to the other clear spot in the sky. You do not need to use Dubhe, I am just using it as a guide star for you to look for in the night sky.
If you have drawn a "local horizon" for SkySafari, it is easy to find the clear spots that are 4 hours apart and less than 30 degrees from the NCP.
You just need two clear spots in the sky, there could be obstructions in between those two spots. ASIAIR does not care (it takes no images while it slews the 4 hours).
The thing about starting at the home position to do Polar Alignment is nonsense. You can start anywhere as long as it is less than 30 degrees from NCP and has visibility to the sky.
The closer you can get to the pole the better in terms of final accuracy.
Look for my posts in these two threads:
https://bbs.astronomy-imaging-camera.com/d/11580-polar-alignment-without-polaris
https://bbs.astronomy-imaging-camera.com/d/11643-asiair-polar-alignment-without-visibility-of-the-pole
The second post has a table of how (in)accurate ASIAIR is as you move the polar alignment further from the pole. ZWO should have included the database for stars that are even further than 30º from the pole, since 88 arc seconds error is still quite usable for short focal lengths telescopes.
If you can't do the above, your only choice is to drift align. StarSense will never work for you as Polar Alignment for long time exposures, with or without ASIAIR. It may tell you that it is polar aligned, but you will get field rotation, so that makes it a paper weight.
Drift alignment is actually quite easy to do on ASIAIR. Espcially if you have done it before using PHD2.
First, turn off DEC Corrections (that Auto-North-South-Off menu).
We cannot turn off RA corrections, so you just have to set the Max RA pulse to 1 millisecond (ASIAIR won't let you set it to zero -- probably because it will cause a divide-by-zero somewhere). Then set your guide rate to the lowest possible (which probably is 1x; most other mounts can do 0.25x).
You now have the guide graphs to do drift alignment the PHD2 way (just follow the PHD2 documentation). Since we now have Multi-star centroids, the guide graph should be especially clean and accurate.
Hide the guide pulses since there is no useful information with that clutter.
ZWO could have added a "no RA pulse" option, but setting the max pulse to 1 millisecond should be good enough -- after 1000 seconds, the 1 ms pulses would have move the mount by just 1 arc second. So, if you can finish the drift alignment in 15 minutes, it is as if those guide pulses are effectively turned off.
I gave up drift alignment after PoleMaster came out, I then abandoned PoleMaster after SharpCap came out with polar alignment. I abandoned SharpCap after they went to a subscription model (there is only so much greed that I will tolerate). Luckily, at that time, ASIAIR implemented something a little better than SharpCap.
Chen
