Can you please add a feature (logic?) so an SS attached to a power supply doesn't wrap around itself with the attached USB cable? Traditional EQ mounts don't have this issue like your AMN mounts and others.

    jayszwo we noticed this, and will try to optimize this as soon as possible.

    jayszwo This has been asked here many times before. People have suggested various solutions, like magnetically coupled USB cables, I have one of those but I never had an issue with tangled cables. I have a lot of trees around and I only see a relatively small area of the sky so I never move between targets very far away so this is not an issue for me. But I do see how this could be a problem if you had an open sky and moved around a lot, especially when in unattended plan mode.

    It would be of course trivial to keep count of the number of turns the S50 has made and decide to turn in the opposite direction to avoid tangling the cable, even if going the other way is faster. What is funny is that I have seen the S50 actually go the long way around sometimes when moving from target to target, but that seems to be random and has nothing to do with USB cable detangling.

      I'm not sure if this is a regression in the 2.3 version but I haven't noticed it in previous versions. I have deactivated the automatic start of image stacking after approaching a target. Now I am observing the following behavior:

      I choose a nebula (e..g, M1) as target. The LP filter is activated automatically. Then I start image stacking by pressing the large red record button. While the Seestar does the necessary steps (horizontal calibration, preparation of image stacking, autofocusing), it deactivates the LP filter. Then it starts image stacking without activating the LP filter again. So, I have to stop image stacking, activate the LP filter manually and start image stacking again.

      Has anyone else noticed this behavior? Or is this a known issue @Tech@ZWO?

        starnet59 Another interesting solution for the USB cable tangling problem is to attach the USB power pack to the body of the S50, immediately above the power button, and use a very short USB cable. This would make even more sense in EQ mode, when it would actually improve the balance of the telescope. 3D printing such a holder is easy but I was not able to find an S50 3D model, so I am working on one in Fusion360 as we speak. Once I have that, creating accessories to mount on the S50 should be easy.

          x18NgyL8 this has happened to me everytime, I have to cancel shooting and reactivate the filter and then restart shooting.

          Thanks for the links. All of them cover the S50 vents, which might not be a good idea.

          As for EQ mode, I already have the wedge and I like Kai's idea of supporting the S50 from the top with a second tripod, so I am working on a Fusion360 model for that too.

          hello

          when the italian language?

          LA3QMA This is my attempt at an USB pack holder. This is the second iteration and the third one will be perfect. The S50 body is hard to model but I am getting very close. I also plan to add top support for EQ mounting.

          Of course, everyone's USB power pack is different, so unless you have exactly the same one this is not useful, but the S50 shell could be used as a starting point. I am willing to share the STL and STEP files for that.

            starnet59 Ahh nice. Im not that worried about the vent but it depends as you say on usage and how your powerbank is. Anyhow i have not yet printed a holder as i wanted to modify one from printables so that its more like a "shelf" and maybe use velcro. Then the depth is "variable" so the powerbank can be of several types/thickness.

            As I mentioned, I can share the shell portion of my design (without the USB holder) so that you can design your own starting from it. It does require supports and it is a long print, but you can chop off most of the top and print it upside down without supports that way.

            Thank you so much for developing Seestar and improving it so well with upgrades in software. It's virtually a mini-Mount Palomar in a shoebox! For a few weeks, I created a cradle-like Equatorial Mount, and it is developing on Thingiverse.com. Dozens of improving versions and a perfect design yet to be designed. Some enthusiasts are offering kits online using my basic design. Its original purpose was to offer a mount that had less strain on the inside gears and bearing when the unit is highly tilted, pointing to Polaris. However, I liked that it could be set up, just sitting on a portable table, safe from falling off an unstable tripod. It now offers a new integrated battery/ weight tray. No matter how we use equatorial mounts, so many of us are eager for ZWO to offer an equatorial mount mode. Keep up the great work!

            Hi.

            Unfortunately, I have had to find that my Seestar S30 no longer can find the sun/moon but stops 75-80 degrees before it reaches the target. It is not only me who uses the Seestar but also my children. After asking the users, we have found out that the error has occurred right after the upgrade of the APP to V2.3 was installed with the new firmware. I have tried to calibrate the compass several times only to find that it cannot be done on a flat non-magnetic surface but you have to hold the S30 in your hand slightly crookedly to complete the calibration. This has changed compared to the first calibration. Does anyone have the same problems or has my S30 become defective ?

              landbo
              If it's an S30, maybe you can use the wide angle to find the sun and moon, you can just tap the joystick on the right side of the screen and swing the sun or moon to the center of the screen.

                Support@Seestar Yes, first I aim over the telescope arm and then the sun is near the cross in the wide angle camera. The height of the arm matches the height of the sun well. It's not a big problem but more of a bit irritating.

                  landbo
                  Please recalibrate the compass, and then click “Level Sensor Calibration” in the app to calibrate the initial level position, but note that you need to remove Seestar from the tripod and place it on a level surface (e.g., desktop, floor, the more level the better).

                    With the AI denoise and image cropping the set of onboard post editing tools gets really useful. What about a "remove green noise" addon?
                    @support@Seestar

                      BHE Are you unable to eliminate noise using smart noise reduction?
                      If you want, I will propose this idea to the team.

                      • BHE replied to this.